Living Vicariously

Visiting Mom in her South African Peace Corps assignment with big game, beaches, Cape Town, and the Winelands thrown in for good measure

Saturday, October 29, 2011

All the video from Africa including Mom hanging out with her Peace Corps friends

The Trip Home

We had a very nice dinner the last night in Franschhoek - 7 courses.  The chef was a South African with a Russian wife he had met while he was in St. Peterburg working at a hotel.  A wonderful dinner.

In the morning, we were planning a leisurely drive to the coast and then to the Cape Town airport for our trips home - Mom to Durban and then to Pomeroy and me to Johannesburg, Amsterdam, and finally Minnesota.

It was not to go a planned.  I woke to here some disconcerting noises from Mom's room.  She had been up since 6 am throwing up.  She was very uncomfortable.  It continued until 9 am.  I decided that a visit to a doctor was in order.  Loesje, the very nice woman who ran out inn, called her Doctor and got us an appointment for 11:30.  Mom got a shot and some drugs and we went back to the cottage to put her to bed. She was very tired and in no condition to travel.  The Doctor thought that is was most likely a 24 hour thing that would run its course.  Time was ticking.

At 1:30 I checked on Mom and she was better but still not in condition to travel.  So I made an executive decision.  I changed her flight and hotel to the next day, arranged to stay in Franschhoek one more night and arranged for a car and driver to pick her up at 8 am the next morning for an 11 am flight to Durban.   We had a very short conversation.  At 2:15 I left for the airport.  Although it seemed strange, she was actually safer in Franschhoek than trying to travel to Durban and Loesje and her husband agreed to look in on her throughout the day.

It all worked like clock work.  She got to Durban and as planned the next day and was cured.

In the mean time -- I caught my flight, endured an 8 hour layover in Johannesburg -- 10 1/2 hours to Amsterdam - 3 hour layover -- and 8 hours to Minneapolis.  I arrive home about 5 pm on Sunday night.

Mom got home on Monday morning to Pomeroy as planned.  Our short adventure over.

Saturday, October 15, 2011

Last Day in Franschhoek


Saturday Morning, Franschhoek, Western Cape

We had a fine day yesterday.  It was the first day of bad weather though.  A storm came to the north and it was cloudy and rained intermittently all day.  The low clouds and rain made for interesting vistas as we drove on the Franschhoek mountain.  The town is at the head of a valley ringed by mountains on three side.  Not sure how, tall, maybe 3000 feet, but they are very rocky and very steep.  There is a big contrast between the tops of the mountains and the vineyards and orchards of the valley.

First we had a nice breakfast at the Pancake place – very good crepes.  We drove over the mountain in the morning.  The passenger seat was a bit concerned about the twisty mountain road and lack of guardrails.  But for a mountain road it generally had a shoulder and my turnouts to look.  We went over and back again and arrived back in the Franschhoek valley.

Time for wine tasting.  Off we went to Moreson.  For R30 ($4) we got 5 wines and a nice conversation with the staff.  Being a rainy day, there was not a big crowd.  By this time it was lunch time and we went across the road to La Motte.  This was a very beautiful estate set up against the mountain.  It include a museum to the founder, Anton Rupert, his collection of art by a South African artist – not too interesting – and a small shrine to his daughter Hanneli Rupert who is a mezzo-soprano of some repute.  It seemed a bit odd.

Mother needed food.  No more wine tasting without food.  She headed to the restaurant and set herself down.  It was a very elegant restaurant.  She had the mushroom lasagna (porcini mushrooms in a fine dining concoction that did not resemble lasagna).  She declared it the best thing she had ever eaten.

By now, 3 PM, we headed to another winery.  Boekenhoutkloof.  Free tasting, 7 wines, the Syrah is the best in Franschhoek.  Everything else is a bit ordinary and lacks character and depth.

We headed home to nap and rest.  The rain stopped but it was still cool.

After much research, we went off to dinner at what we thought was the best restaurant in town to celebrate the end of a wonderful vacation.  Ryan’s Kitchen.  We had a great 7 course, 3 hour dinner that consisted of Namibian Crab, Kudu, Snoek (an Atlantic fish) mousse in an Asian fusion cannelloni thing, more wines, small bites, etc. 

We got back at 10:30 and collapsed in bed.

Last Day – Heading homer this afternoon.

Today is the last day.  The rain is past and the sun is shining.  We planned to take a short drive in the country and make our way leisurely to the airport in Cape Town.  My flight is at 5:05 and Mom’s is about 4:30.  Then begins the long trips home.  She goes first to Durban to spend the night and catch the coumbie home on Sunday morning.  I go to Joburg, for an overnight flight to Amsterdam and then to MSP.

Wednesday, October 12, 2011

Table Mountain

On our first full day in Cape Town, the morning dawned clear and cool.  Table Mountain above the city can have unpredictable weather so when its clear, you go.  It was in the 60's in the city, so it would be in the 50's on the top (3000 feet about sea level).  We took a rikki (one of the 3 types of cabs) up to the cable car station and very soon we were on the top.  WOW.  Everything people say about going to Cape Town and being 3000 feet above the city is true.  It was also very windy!  Pictures tell the story best.  We spent about 3 hours on top.  There is a long hike along the ridge which is on a - mostly - paved trail where you get various vistas including the view to the south to Cape Point and the whole peninsula.  It was very cloudy to the south but there was lots of breaks and it gradually started to clear up.  At one point, as we were looking down at the Atlantic to the west we could see a pod of whales breaching and diving near the shore.  Too far away for pictures but we could clearly see them in the binoculars.  We had a casual lunch at the surprisingly good little cafe on the summit and soaked up the sunshine.

We took the cable car back down and then set off for the Castle.  The Castle is a star fort on what was the original shoreline (now moved out about 1/2 mile by fill) that was the original headquarters of the Dutch East India Company.  Cape Town originally was a place to get food and water on voyages between Europe and the Indies.  The fort was both the principal store room and defensive point.  It was largely built between 1640 and 1690.  The museum inside contained lots of old furniture (very fine stuff) and typical displays of armaments.  The history was interesting and we took the nickel tour.

After the fort, we walk back through the city to explore the core of Cape Town.  Lots of old buildings.  This is where most of the government functions and buildings were located up until the end of apartheid.  We explored the Company Gardens and business district.

Now we needed a rest.  We headed for the hotel pool and had a refreshment.  Mom took a plunge (cool but you get used to it).  We cleaned up, had a light supper by the pool and headed out to the opera.  Robin, the manager of the hotel arrange the hotel limo to get us to the Artscape -- the 70's era performing arts center.  The crowd was gathering.  It was opening night for a new production of Verdi's La Traviata.  Singing was good (the Violetta was a bit tentative during the opening, but got stronger), the set was very interesting, and the costumes had a decidedly African flavor for the reveries of the party scenes.  Very fun and well done.  Sold out and enthusiastic crowd.

A taxi home and we collapsed a long and busy day.

 Lunch in the sun
Cape Town and Robbin Island in the bay

 the cape pennisula coast line


Monday, October 10, 2011

Cape Town -- arrived Monday

Well, we made it to Cape Town.  We left the tropical environs of Durban - and got Mom oriented to the Durban airport - especially what to do when she returns on Saturday to make her way back to Pomeroy.  There was a bit of a hassle with Hertz over the correct charges, but, they finally saw it my way.  It was a pleasant 2 hour flight.

In Cape Town, I worked with Delta agents to fix my return flight.  It took about 45 minutes but I now have a flight home from Cape Town like I originally planned and that Delta failed to book properly.  It will be necessary to unwind this when I get home.

The Hilton is very nice and Mom is very pleased with the free high speed internet, free breakfast, shower, nice bed, and the deference shown their most important guests.  We will be here until Thursday morning.  We had a great dinner at an unusual place on Long Street called Mama Africa.  Long Street is the main drag in the night club and restaurant district of Cape Town.  It looks a lot like Bourbon Street in New Orleans.   Mama Africa is all about MEAT.  The specialty is the Game Platter that includes no endangered species but nice variety of things you have never considered eating.  It was good.  The place was buzzing and it had a great African marimba band that never took a break.  We dragged ourselves home about 9 pm and passed out.

The weather is a bit cool here.  I wish I had my fleece jacket.  It's spring but only 16 C (low 60's F).  We are going up Table Mountain and it will be cooler.  So we are dressing warm.  There should be nice pictures of Cape Town on tomorrow's edition.

Check out the video of the Elephant in yesterday post.

More animals - the Elephant

From the game park --


this is the bad girl who would not let us by.  The poop and pee on the road were an interesting tactic.

Sunday, October 9, 2011

Ballito and a SKYPE video confernce between 9AM and 10 AM Central time


Sunday in Ballito – Dealing with Details, SKYPE VIDEO CONFERENCE AT 9 AM Central Time, Monday, October 10.  Be on line.  Read the end of the blog for more details.

We woke up early on Sunday morning.  This is what happens when you go to bed at 8 PM.  The Dolphin Holiday Resort is basically a campground 1 block from the beach with 10 cabins of various sizes.  October isn’t the best month for the beach – still a bit cool – but the Durbans schools start on Monday so the families were starting to clear out.  It was very quite.  Our cabin is in the jungle section.  There is a pond surrounded by what look like Minnesota house plants that are growing outdoors to gargantuan size.  There are yellow weaver birds building their hanging nests and making all sorts of racket.  Lots of frogs at night.  Our cabin is a nice 2 bedroom with living room, bath, and kitchen.  Very comfortable with air conditioning.

We set off the the Tea Room across the pond for English breakfast but they don’t open until 8:30.  So, we set off to do some errand.  We did a test run to the Durban airport (10 minutes away) to attempt to fix a booking problem – I have a flight home that originates in Durban that I need to change to Cape Town.  This is the kind of snafu that would not have occurred if Kathy was on this trip.  I am good at the planning up to a point, but a few small details that slip through can leave you with no ride home on the right day.  To no avail, I will need to fix it in Cape Town on Monday.  On the way back we stopped at the LifeStyle Mall to visit the friendly Vodafone store to buy a data bundle for Mom’s cell modem.  We figured out the most cost effective way to get MegaBytes in this country.  When dealing with phone companies and airlines, it pays to look at all the details.  We discovered that Mom can get her cost per Megabyte down significantly buy converting voice minutes to data bundles (an intricate procedure with the various authorization codes and related technical hocus pocus).  All of this is intended to maximize Vodafone’s profit at the expense of the detail challenged.

Back at camp, a wonderful breakfast ($12 for two) at the Tea Room.  We head to the beach.  A long walk, crashing waves .. but we see no dolphins.  No clouds, warm, and humid.  The ocean was a rough with a strong on shore breeze.  Exploring the beach got us to lunch.  A nice deck overlooking the sea for a snack (a South African take on Nachos served by Zulu waitresses with no working knowledge of world geography – like, where is Mexico – and made with the peculiar ground beef perfected by the Boers population called “mince”). Then backhome for rest.  This was planned as a more leisurely rest day.  In the evening Kathy calls and we catch up.  A bit later, Mary Peterson calls.

At 7:30 we head out to Al Pescatore, an interesting take on an Italian restaurant.  It’s right on the beach with a deck.  However, tonight it is too cool to sit outside.  We get the seafood platter and shun the Italian standards that no doubt bear no resemblance to Italian food (learned my lesson with the Nachos) and focus on seafood options at Al Pescatore. The platter was delicious and enough food for 3 people.  Fish filet, prawns, mussels, calamari, and veg.  Our waitress hostess explains that, “South African eat a lot.”  I can’t wait to order a value meal at McDonalds.

In the morning, we pack up and head out to Cape Town at 11:20 am.  So no need to rush.  The second week of the trip awaits.  The Hilton Hotel in Cape Town promises to have wi-fi internet unlimited service.  This is our best opportunity to have a video Skype conference.

We should be in the Hilton by 3:30 so I will look on line at 4:00 PM and 5:00 PM (9 AM to 10 AM Central Time in the US) for anyone who is logged into Skype and awaiting our call.  Comment on this blog if you have other times in mind and we will check it through out the next 3 days.  We will be at the Cape Town Hilton until Thursday morning.  After that, we are off to the winelands where I am sure we will be effectively back on the low speed internet.