Slept ok, but, I noticed the jet lag. I got tired and went to bed about 10 pm (3 pm at home) and slept until 2 am or so. Its more like an afternoon nap. Then, when it get to be 4:30 am or so (which is 9:30 PM at home) I get sleepy and finally go back to bed. So, I we got a bit of a late start -- we left the convent clinic at 10 am. We had breakfast, got cleaned up, finished packing up, and said good bye to Sister Michael (the retired French sister that was there) and various people at the clinic. Mom was ready to go.
It was a long drive. We backtracked to Stanger on the coast. The scenery is spectacular beginning at Tugela Ferry as there are deep valleys and ridges that give long vistas of rugged hills. As you get closer to the coast, the arid and rocky landscaped of Pomeroy gives way to lush farm land (sugar cane fields mostly with forests of trees that have been planted for pulp). The people gradually become more prosperous looking. I remember thinking on the way to Pomeroy how poor everything looked near Stanger. On the return trip I was struck by how well off the people near Stanger were. Obviously, Pomeroy was at the bottom of the barrel and it looked very different traveling out vs. traveling in.
The people always seem to be going somewhere. They walk or stand along the roads everywhere waiting for a ride - hitch hiking or waiting for a 14 passenger van that is not full to stop and pick them up. Frequently that are sitting by the road in the middle of no where. No cross roads, no obvious path from anywhere. They appear to live in houses (mud brick, stick and wattle, or cinder block, and thatched roofs) somewhere out of sight, walk up to the road -- and wait. The women walk with the bundles on their heads (including firewood they have gone far to scavenge) very slowly. Although not at hot this time of year -- no one is in a hurry to get anywhere until they get behind the wheel of car that is.
The rondeval construction is classic wattle. They form an interior and exterior wall from stakes with wattle woven between to form a wall. The interior space is filled up with stones and the whole think is coverd in mud or some sort of plaster and the roof thatched. Many appear to be very old and deteriorated but still acting as houses. They are everywhere. The are in small clusters on hilltops, hillsides, or near Pomeroy, scatter throughout the dusty landscape.
Getting to Stanger took about 2 hours -- as we got to the N2 right at 12 noon. Mom was ready for lunch and a break. So, because I had studied up, I suggested we explore the nearby (and very swanky beach town) of Blythedale which is a few miles from Stanger on the beach. It mostly consists of housing developments and condos with a view of the ocean. There is a public beach, 1 bar/cafe (which looked abandoned), and a very nice resort, the Palm Beach Resort. We asked the attendant at the publich beach for directions and ended up at the Palm Beach Resort. There were lot of monkeys on the road roaming the trash containers looking for a meal.
This is definitely low season along the Dolphin Coast. We were the only people in the restaurant. It was a gorgeous setting in the tropical vegetation with a view of the beach and surf about a 2 minute walk away. The weather was very pleasant and we had a very nice lunch for R160 ($20) for both of us. A nice glass of Sauvignon Blanc was R16 ($2) I had a piece of local fish broiled and Mom had some sort of sandwich that was quite good. The rooms were about $250 per night. Best of all, Mom reported that they had wonderful bathroom fixtures. We agreed that this was the first stop on our vacation and that it was a world (and then some) away from Pomeroy.
After lunch, we hit the N2 north bound. We left about 1 PM. The N2 turned into a 2 lane road north of Richard's Bay which meant we had to dodge traffic. There is a lot of traffic. On two lane roads with wide shoulders, if you are a slow car, you pull to the left on the shoulder and let others pass in a combination center lane. The oncoming traffic moves over to their left. In this way a 2 lane road is used as a 3 lane road with a passing lane down that middle that is somehow shared by both lanes of traffic. Its like driving in Italy. When you are driving, you focus on driving, and nothing else. Other than buying gas, we pressed on to Mtumbatumba and got off there to stock up on groceries about 3 PM at the Pick n Pay. Pick n Pay is very modern in style and look. Except for the limited selection in some departments and the definitely distinctive meat department it had everything a person could want for the next 2 days including -- a rotisserie chicken for dinner, 2 baguettes, bananas, green beans, cheese, wine, lamb chops for a second dinner, sweet rolls, yogurt and cereal and 3 bottles of fairly good wine for $43 total (this includes the wine which averages about $4 per bottle and is very drinkable).
After Mtumbatumba is was a short drive to the Hlulhuwe park entrance. We got there about 5 pm - and the shadows were getting long. It was a 15 km drive from the entrance to he Hill Top camp. As we drove in along the road we immediately saw: rhinoceros, giraffe, water buffalo, and zebra - in the first 3 minutes. The park landscape and animals are almost impossible to describe. When we got to the Hill Top camp - it was a bit cool with a breeze (to cool to sit on the patio and look at the incredible view) so we went to our cabin. Although I think the camp is full, it is very private. Our chalet is very spacious with a deck in the woods. It has a modern kitchen with stuff and sufficient space we won't get in each other's way. The sun set - we had wine and cheese on the deck until dark - had our chicken dinner. When we were watching the stars come out, Mom said, look at that plane. It wasn't a plane, it was a very bright satellite. Mom thought it was the first one she had seen, ever. I crossed over head in less than 1 minute. Was it an omen or a sign for our game drive in the morning, a possible Zulu point of view. Actually, it isn't a sign, but probably the result of an act of the US Congress in funding NASA.
We hit the hay at 8:30. Mom announced that it was the best bed she had slept on in months. It is so comfortable "you won't want to get up," she said. I woke up at midnight to write this. Heading back to bed now.
Tomorrow we are off on a game drive at 5 am (alarm at 4 am, be at the lodge at 4:50) for 3 hours. I am expecting the temperature will be in the low 50's and that we will need to dress warm in the open vehicle. We will be back by 8 am for breakfast. The sky is clear, the stars are out, and the weather forecast is for 80 degrees on the coast and slightly higher inland.
What's wattle? And what's rondeval?
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