Saturday, October 29, 2011
The Trip Home
We had a very nice dinner the last night in Franschhoek - 7 courses. The chef was a South African with a Russian wife he had met while he was in St. Peterburg working at a hotel. A wonderful dinner.
In the morning, we were planning a leisurely drive to the coast and then to the Cape Town airport for our trips home - Mom to Durban and then to Pomeroy and me to Johannesburg, Amsterdam, and finally Minnesota.
It was not to go a planned. I woke to here some disconcerting noises from Mom's room. She had been up since 6 am throwing up. She was very uncomfortable. It continued until 9 am. I decided that a visit to a doctor was in order. Loesje, the very nice woman who ran out inn, called her Doctor and got us an appointment for 11:30. Mom got a shot and some drugs and we went back to the cottage to put her to bed. She was very tired and in no condition to travel. The Doctor thought that is was most likely a 24 hour thing that would run its course. Time was ticking.
At 1:30 I checked on Mom and she was better but still not in condition to travel. So I made an executive decision. I changed her flight and hotel to the next day, arranged to stay in Franschhoek one more night and arranged for a car and driver to pick her up at 8 am the next morning for an 11 am flight to Durban. We had a very short conversation. At 2:15 I left for the airport. Although it seemed strange, she was actually safer in Franschhoek than trying to travel to Durban and Loesje and her husband agreed to look in on her throughout the day.
It all worked like clock work. She got to Durban and as planned the next day and was cured.
In the mean time -- I caught my flight, endured an 8 hour layover in Johannesburg -- 10 1/2 hours to Amsterdam - 3 hour layover -- and 8 hours to Minneapolis. I arrive home about 5 pm on Sunday night.
Mom got home on Monday morning to Pomeroy as planned. Our short adventure over.
In the morning, we were planning a leisurely drive to the coast and then to the Cape Town airport for our trips home - Mom to Durban and then to Pomeroy and me to Johannesburg, Amsterdam, and finally Minnesota.
It was not to go a planned. I woke to here some disconcerting noises from Mom's room. She had been up since 6 am throwing up. She was very uncomfortable. It continued until 9 am. I decided that a visit to a doctor was in order. Loesje, the very nice woman who ran out inn, called her Doctor and got us an appointment for 11:30. Mom got a shot and some drugs and we went back to the cottage to put her to bed. She was very tired and in no condition to travel. The Doctor thought that is was most likely a 24 hour thing that would run its course. Time was ticking.
At 1:30 I checked on Mom and she was better but still not in condition to travel. So I made an executive decision. I changed her flight and hotel to the next day, arranged to stay in Franschhoek one more night and arranged for a car and driver to pick her up at 8 am the next morning for an 11 am flight to Durban. We had a very short conversation. At 2:15 I left for the airport. Although it seemed strange, she was actually safer in Franschhoek than trying to travel to Durban and Loesje and her husband agreed to look in on her throughout the day.
It all worked like clock work. She got to Durban and as planned the next day and was cured.
In the mean time -- I caught my flight, endured an 8 hour layover in Johannesburg -- 10 1/2 hours to Amsterdam - 3 hour layover -- and 8 hours to Minneapolis. I arrive home about 5 pm on Sunday night.
Mom got home on Monday morning to Pomeroy as planned. Our short adventure over.
Saturday, October 15, 2011
Last Day in Franschhoek
Saturday Morning, Franschhoek, Western Cape
We had a fine day yesterday. It was the first day of bad weather though. A storm came to the north and it was cloudy and rained intermittently all day. The low clouds and rain made for interesting vistas as we drove on the Franschhoek mountain. The town is at the head of a valley ringed by mountains on three side. Not sure how, tall, maybe 3000 feet, but they are very rocky and very steep. There is a big contrast between the tops of the mountains and the vineyards and orchards of the valley.
First we had a nice breakfast at the Pancake place – very good crepes. We drove over the mountain in the morning. The passenger seat was a bit concerned about the twisty mountain road and lack of guardrails. But for a mountain road it generally had a shoulder and my turnouts to look. We went over and back again and arrived back in the Franschhoek valley.
Time for wine tasting. Off we went to Moreson. For R30 ($4) we got 5 wines and a nice conversation with the staff. Being a rainy day, there was not a big crowd. By this time it was lunch time and we went across the road to La Motte. This was a very beautiful estate set up against the mountain. It include a museum to the founder, Anton Rupert, his collection of art by a South African artist – not too interesting – and a small shrine to his daughter Hanneli Rupert who is a mezzo-soprano of some repute. It seemed a bit odd.
Mother needed food. No more wine tasting without food. She headed to the restaurant and set herself down. It was a very elegant restaurant. She had the mushroom lasagna (porcini mushrooms in a fine dining concoction that did not resemble lasagna). She declared it the best thing she had ever eaten.
By now, 3 PM, we headed to another winery. Boekenhoutkloof. Free tasting, 7 wines, the Syrah is the best in Franschhoek. Everything else is a bit ordinary and lacks character and depth.
We headed home to nap and rest. The rain stopped but it was still cool.
After much research, we went off to dinner at what we thought was the best restaurant in town to celebrate the end of a wonderful vacation. Ryan’s Kitchen. We had a great 7 course, 3 hour dinner that consisted of Namibian Crab, Kudu, Snoek (an Atlantic fish) mousse in an Asian fusion cannelloni thing, more wines, small bites, etc.
We got back at 10:30 and collapsed in bed.
Last Day – Heading homer this afternoon.
Today is the last day. The rain is past and the sun is shining. We planned to take a short drive in the country and make our way leisurely to the airport in Cape Town. My flight is at 5:05 and Mom’s is about 4:30. Then begins the long trips home. She goes first to Durban to spend the night and catch the coumbie home on Sunday morning. I go to Joburg, for an overnight flight to Amsterdam and then to MSP.
Wednesday, October 12, 2011
Table Mountain
On our first full day in Cape Town, the morning dawned clear and cool. Table Mountain above the city can have unpredictable weather so when its clear, you go. It was in the 60's in the city, so it would be in the 50's on the top (3000 feet about sea level). We took a rikki (one of the 3 types of cabs) up to the cable car station and very soon we were on the top. WOW. Everything people say about going to Cape Town and being 3000 feet above the city is true. It was also very windy! Pictures tell the story best. We spent about 3 hours on top. There is a long hike along the ridge which is on a - mostly - paved trail where you get various vistas including the view to the south to Cape Point and the whole peninsula. It was very cloudy to the south but there was lots of breaks and it gradually started to clear up. At one point, as we were looking down at the Atlantic to the west we could see a pod of whales breaching and diving near the shore. Too far away for pictures but we could clearly see them in the binoculars. We had a casual lunch at the surprisingly good little cafe on the summit and soaked up the sunshine.
We took the cable car back down and then set off for the Castle. The Castle is a star fort on what was the original shoreline (now moved out about 1/2 mile by fill) that was the original headquarters of the Dutch East India Company. Cape Town originally was a place to get food and water on voyages between Europe and the Indies. The fort was both the principal store room and defensive point. It was largely built between 1640 and 1690. The museum inside contained lots of old furniture (very fine stuff) and typical displays of armaments. The history was interesting and we took the nickel tour.
After the fort, we walk back through the city to explore the core of Cape Town. Lots of old buildings. This is where most of the government functions and buildings were located up until the end of apartheid. We explored the Company Gardens and business district.
Now we needed a rest. We headed for the hotel pool and had a refreshment. Mom took a plunge (cool but you get used to it). We cleaned up, had a light supper by the pool and headed out to the opera. Robin, the manager of the hotel arrange the hotel limo to get us to the Artscape -- the 70's era performing arts center. The crowd was gathering. It was opening night for a new production of Verdi's La Traviata. Singing was good (the Violetta was a bit tentative during the opening, but got stronger), the set was very interesting, and the costumes had a decidedly African flavor for the reveries of the party scenes. Very fun and well done. Sold out and enthusiastic crowd.
A taxi home and we collapsed a long and busy day.
Lunch in the sun
Cape Town and Robbin Island in the bay
the cape pennisula coast line
We took the cable car back down and then set off for the Castle. The Castle is a star fort on what was the original shoreline (now moved out about 1/2 mile by fill) that was the original headquarters of the Dutch East India Company. Cape Town originally was a place to get food and water on voyages between Europe and the Indies. The fort was both the principal store room and defensive point. It was largely built between 1640 and 1690. The museum inside contained lots of old furniture (very fine stuff) and typical displays of armaments. The history was interesting and we took the nickel tour.
After the fort, we walk back through the city to explore the core of Cape Town. Lots of old buildings. This is where most of the government functions and buildings were located up until the end of apartheid. We explored the Company Gardens and business district.
Now we needed a rest. We headed for the hotel pool and had a refreshment. Mom took a plunge (cool but you get used to it). We cleaned up, had a light supper by the pool and headed out to the opera. Robin, the manager of the hotel arrange the hotel limo to get us to the Artscape -- the 70's era performing arts center. The crowd was gathering. It was opening night for a new production of Verdi's La Traviata. Singing was good (the Violetta was a bit tentative during the opening, but got stronger), the set was very interesting, and the costumes had a decidedly African flavor for the reveries of the party scenes. Very fun and well done. Sold out and enthusiastic crowd.
A taxi home and we collapsed a long and busy day.
Monday, October 10, 2011
Cape Town -- arrived Monday
Well, we made it to Cape Town. We left the tropical environs of Durban - and got Mom oriented to the Durban airport - especially what to do when she returns on Saturday to make her way back to Pomeroy. There was a bit of a hassle with Hertz over the correct charges, but, they finally saw it my way. It was a pleasant 2 hour flight.
In Cape Town, I worked with Delta agents to fix my return flight. It took about 45 minutes but I now have a flight home from Cape Town like I originally planned and that Delta failed to book properly. It will be necessary to unwind this when I get home.
The Hilton is very nice and Mom is very pleased with the free high speed internet, free breakfast, shower, nice bed, and the deference shown their most important guests. We will be here until Thursday morning. We had a great dinner at an unusual place on Long Street called Mama Africa. Long Street is the main drag in the night club and restaurant district of Cape Town. It looks a lot like Bourbon Street in New Orleans. Mama Africa is all about MEAT. The specialty is the Game Platter that includes no endangered species but nice variety of things you have never considered eating. It was good. The place was buzzing and it had a great African marimba band that never took a break. We dragged ourselves home about 9 pm and passed out.
The weather is a bit cool here. I wish I had my fleece jacket. It's spring but only 16 C (low 60's F). We are going up Table Mountain and it will be cooler. So we are dressing warm. There should be nice pictures of Cape Town on tomorrow's edition.
Check out the video of the Elephant in yesterday post.
In Cape Town, I worked with Delta agents to fix my return flight. It took about 45 minutes but I now have a flight home from Cape Town like I originally planned and that Delta failed to book properly. It will be necessary to unwind this when I get home.
The Hilton is very nice and Mom is very pleased with the free high speed internet, free breakfast, shower, nice bed, and the deference shown their most important guests. We will be here until Thursday morning. We had a great dinner at an unusual place on Long Street called Mama Africa. Long Street is the main drag in the night club and restaurant district of Cape Town. It looks a lot like Bourbon Street in New Orleans. Mama Africa is all about MEAT. The specialty is the Game Platter that includes no endangered species but nice variety of things you have never considered eating. It was good. The place was buzzing and it had a great African marimba band that never took a break. We dragged ourselves home about 9 pm and passed out.
The weather is a bit cool here. I wish I had my fleece jacket. It's spring but only 16 C (low 60's F). We are going up Table Mountain and it will be cooler. So we are dressing warm. There should be nice pictures of Cape Town on tomorrow's edition.
Check out the video of the Elephant in yesterday post.
More animals - the Elephant
From the game park --
this is the bad girl who would not let us by. The poop and pee on the road were an interesting tactic.
this is the bad girl who would not let us by. The poop and pee on the road were an interesting tactic.
Sunday, October 9, 2011
Ballito and a SKYPE video confernce between 9AM and 10 AM Central time
Sunday in Ballito – Dealing with Details, SKYPE VIDEO CONFERENCE AT 9 AM Central Time, Monday, October 10. Be on line. Read the end of the blog for more details.
We woke up early on Sunday morning. This is what happens when you go to bed at 8 PM. The Dolphin Holiday Resort is basically a campground 1 block from the beach with 10 cabins of various sizes. October isn’t the best month for the beach – still a bit cool – but the Durbans schools start on Monday so the families were starting to clear out. It was very quite. Our cabin is in the jungle section. There is a pond surrounded by what look like Minnesota house plants that are growing outdoors to gargantuan size. There are yellow weaver birds building their hanging nests and making all sorts of racket. Lots of frogs at night. Our cabin is a nice 2 bedroom with living room, bath, and kitchen. Very comfortable with air conditioning.
We set off the the Tea Room across the pond for English breakfast but they don’t open until 8:30. So, we set off to do some errand. We did a test run to the Durban airport (10 minutes away) to attempt to fix a booking problem – I have a flight home that originates in Durban that I need to change to Cape Town. This is the kind of snafu that would not have occurred if Kathy was on this trip. I am good at the planning up to a point, but a few small details that slip through can leave you with no ride home on the right day. To no avail, I will need to fix it in Cape Town on Monday. On the way back we stopped at the LifeStyle Mall to visit the friendly Vodafone store to buy a data bundle for Mom’s cell modem. We figured out the most cost effective way to get MegaBytes in this country. When dealing with phone companies and airlines, it pays to look at all the details. We discovered that Mom can get her cost per Megabyte down significantly buy converting voice minutes to data bundles (an intricate procedure with the various authorization codes and related technical hocus pocus). All of this is intended to maximize Vodafone’s profit at the expense of the detail challenged.
Back at camp, a wonderful breakfast ($12 for two) at the Tea Room. We head to the beach. A long walk, crashing waves .. but we see no dolphins. No clouds, warm, and humid. The ocean was a rough with a strong on shore breeze. Exploring the beach got us to lunch. A nice deck overlooking the sea for a snack (a South African take on Nachos served by Zulu waitresses with no working knowledge of world geography – like, where is Mexico – and made with the peculiar ground beef perfected by the Boers population called “mince”). Then backhome for rest. This was planned as a more leisurely rest day. In the evening Kathy calls and we catch up. A bit later, Mary Peterson calls.
At 7:30 we head out to Al Pescatore, an interesting take on an Italian restaurant. It’s right on the beach with a deck. However, tonight it is too cool to sit outside. We get the seafood platter and shun the Italian standards that no doubt bear no resemblance to Italian food (learned my lesson with the Nachos) and focus on seafood options at Al Pescatore. The platter was delicious and enough food for 3 people. Fish filet, prawns, mussels, calamari, and veg. Our waitress hostess explains that, “South African eat a lot.” I can’t wait to order a value meal at McDonalds.
In the morning, we pack up and head out to Cape Town at 11:20 am. So no need to rush. The second week of the trip awaits. The Hilton Hotel in Cape Town promises to have wi-fi internet unlimited service. This is our best opportunity to have a video Skype conference.
We should be in the Hilton by 3:30 so I will look on line at 4:00 PM and 5:00 PM (9 AM to 10 AM Central Time in the US) for anyone who is logged into Skype and awaiting our call. Comment on this blog if you have other times in mind and we will check it through out the next 3 days. We will be at the Cape Town Hilton until Thursday morning. After that, we are off to the winelands where I am sure we will be effectively back on the low speed internet.
Beaches - St. Lucia and Balleto
On Saturday, we left the game park. We drove out the long way and continued to spot
animals. We were on the scent of the king of the jungle. Lions are in the Hluhluwe park
but we had only seen a pack of the highly endangered wild dogs. After an hour of more
Rhino, Elephant, Buffalo, and Impala -- we came upon a group of parked cars. Three lion had
been sighted in the ravine below but had disappeared. Everyone waited. We waited. We
wait, drove back and forth, for 45 minutes. No lion. But knowing they were nearby would
have to suffice.
We headed for the exit. At the exit, I was told they need my entry permit to exit. This
was the first I had heard of this. A quick search of the vehicle. No paperwork. The very
nice and beguiling gate attendant informed me that a lost ticket charge was R200 (about
$24). I new I had the ticket. I search the car. After a bit he informed me that if I
"tipped" him R20 (about $2) he would take care of it. At this point I realized that the
computerized document generated at the entrance could be easily reprinted by the admission
desk from their computer files with a simple display of my passport to identify me and the
car. I then realized that the "lost ticket" was phase 1 of the shakedown. If I resisted,
the attendant attempted to settle for the consolation prize ofr R20 - the "tip" - I decided
that I had a tip for him. In no uncertain terms, I think I said "NO", a tip is a bribe and
I am not bribing you to leave a place I already paid to enter. I went into the registration
building. It came to me in a flash were the paper work was stored. Back to the car. I
retrieved it. When I presented it to the attendant I think he was genuinely disappointed that I had outsmarted him. I think the "lost ticket" scam works 50% of the time. This is South Africa, where the have nots, having no options, work every angle with the have. At one point he asked me where I was from. Mom has told me that they think I am a South African Boer (size, color, weight all being factors in the stereotypical analysis). Feeling satisfied in my pursuit of truth, we drove out of the park.
Next stop, 1 hour, St. Lucia. What turned out to be an "old Florida" beach town that time hasn't had time to forget yet. We are there to meet up with Mom's early 20 something Peace
Corps collegues. They were Rachel (23), Danielle (24), and Charlie (23). I suspected
Danielle was the ring leader of this group. She was posted in a hamlet 3 KM (1.8 miles) from St. Lucia and the beach. Although just nearby, she spends all of her time in St. Lucia on the beach. It was the weekend so the team had gathered for some entertainment. Charlie had come 80 km but Rachael had come 11 hours by coumbie (small, 14 person vans that litter the road) for a weekend in St. Lucia. St. Lucia, in case you are looking for it on Google Map, is a short 15 mintues from Mtumbatumba. A tough Zulu town on the N2 freeway -- about 240 kms north of Durban. St. Lucia is the place I want to be in the Peace Corps. I half expected Jimmy Buffet to show up just hanging out at any moment. Beautiful beach, a few
decent restaurant bars, and some clean and simple places to stay. Paradise. The PCV types
were staying at the local motel (very adequate with a pool) for R100 per night -- folks, thats $12 per person, per night. It is walking distance to the beach. So, we meet them. They are smart and charming. They adore Mother. They think and wish that she was their mother. We had speculated what kind of a son Barb would have -- quiet and introverted or more like her. The agree, "more like her." We went to the local spot. Sat on the deck. I bought lunch. Salads, wine (3 bottles), pizza (2) , and 1 kg of prawns for R700 ($85). They were in heaven. That's $17 per person for a two hour lunch. About 2, we said our goodbyes. Mother is joining this group for Thanksgiving back in St. Lucia. I would move to St. Lucia.
We hit the road hard. Drove without stopping to our destination of Ballito. A Durban resort town 20 KM north of the Durban airport. We have a very nice 2 bedroom cabin a short walk to the water (the Indian ocean) in what is effectively a camp ground. Very quiet. Very tropical. Warm, humid, lush. The beach road has a nice assortment of restaurants and bars, there is a very busy shopping center that provides what is needed. But the day was tiring. Once we arrived, I collapsed. By 7:30 I was asleep on the couch. By 8 pm I was asleep in my bed.
animals. We were on the scent of the king of the jungle. Lions are in the Hluhluwe park
but we had only seen a pack of the highly endangered wild dogs. After an hour of more
Rhino, Elephant, Buffalo, and Impala -- we came upon a group of parked cars. Three lion had
been sighted in the ravine below but had disappeared. Everyone waited. We waited. We
wait, drove back and forth, for 45 minutes. No lion. But knowing they were nearby would
have to suffice.
We headed for the exit. At the exit, I was told they need my entry permit to exit. This
was the first I had heard of this. A quick search of the vehicle. No paperwork. The very
nice and beguiling gate attendant informed me that a lost ticket charge was R200 (about
$24). I new I had the ticket. I search the car. After a bit he informed me that if I
"tipped" him R20 (about $2) he would take care of it. At this point I realized that the
computerized document generated at the entrance could be easily reprinted by the admission
desk from their computer files with a simple display of my passport to identify me and the
car. I then realized that the "lost ticket" was phase 1 of the shakedown. If I resisted,
the attendant attempted to settle for the consolation prize ofr R20 - the "tip" - I decided
that I had a tip for him. In no uncertain terms, I think I said "NO", a tip is a bribe and
I am not bribing you to leave a place I already paid to enter. I went into the registration
building. It came to me in a flash were the paper work was stored. Back to the car. I
retrieved it. When I presented it to the attendant I think he was genuinely disappointed that I had outsmarted him. I think the "lost ticket" scam works 50% of the time. This is South Africa, where the have nots, having no options, work every angle with the have. At one point he asked me where I was from. Mom has told me that they think I am a South African Boer (size, color, weight all being factors in the stereotypical analysis). Feeling satisfied in my pursuit of truth, we drove out of the park.
Next stop, 1 hour, St. Lucia. What turned out to be an "old Florida" beach town that time hasn't had time to forget yet. We are there to meet up with Mom's early 20 something Peace
Corps collegues. They were Rachel (23), Danielle (24), and Charlie (23). I suspected
Danielle was the ring leader of this group. She was posted in a hamlet 3 KM (1.8 miles) from St. Lucia and the beach. Although just nearby, she spends all of her time in St. Lucia on the beach. It was the weekend so the team had gathered for some entertainment. Charlie had come 80 km but Rachael had come 11 hours by coumbie (small, 14 person vans that litter the road) for a weekend in St. Lucia. St. Lucia, in case you are looking for it on Google Map, is a short 15 mintues from Mtumbatumba. A tough Zulu town on the N2 freeway -- about 240 kms north of Durban. St. Lucia is the place I want to be in the Peace Corps. I half expected Jimmy Buffet to show up just hanging out at any moment. Beautiful beach, a few
decent restaurant bars, and some clean and simple places to stay. Paradise. The PCV types
were staying at the local motel (very adequate with a pool) for R100 per night -- folks, thats $12 per person, per night. It is walking distance to the beach. So, we meet them. They are smart and charming. They adore Mother. They think and wish that she was their mother. We had speculated what kind of a son Barb would have -- quiet and introverted or more like her. The agree, "more like her." We went to the local spot. Sat on the deck. I bought lunch. Salads, wine (3 bottles), pizza (2) , and 1 kg of prawns for R700 ($85). They were in heaven. That's $17 per person for a two hour lunch. About 2, we said our goodbyes. Mother is joining this group for Thanksgiving back in St. Lucia. I would move to St. Lucia.
We hit the road hard. Drove without stopping to our destination of Ballito. A Durban resort town 20 KM north of the Durban airport. We have a very nice 2 bedroom cabin a short walk to the water (the Indian ocean) in what is effectively a camp ground. Very quiet. Very tropical. Warm, humid, lush. The beach road has a nice assortment of restaurants and bars, there is a very busy shopping center that provides what is needed. But the day was tiring. Once we arrived, I collapsed. By 7:30 I was asleep on the couch. By 8 pm I was asleep in my bed.
Thursday, October 6, 2011
Escape from Pomeroy
Slept ok, but, I noticed the jet lag. I got tired and went to bed about 10 pm (3 pm at home) and slept until 2 am or so. Its more like an afternoon nap. Then, when it get to be 4:30 am or so (which is 9:30 PM at home) I get sleepy and finally go back to bed. So, I we got a bit of a late start -- we left the convent clinic at 10 am. We had breakfast, got cleaned up, finished packing up, and said good bye to Sister Michael (the retired French sister that was there) and various people at the clinic. Mom was ready to go.
It was a long drive. We backtracked to Stanger on the coast. The scenery is spectacular beginning at Tugela Ferry as there are deep valleys and ridges that give long vistas of rugged hills. As you get closer to the coast, the arid and rocky landscaped of Pomeroy gives way to lush farm land (sugar cane fields mostly with forests of trees that have been planted for pulp). The people gradually become more prosperous looking. I remember thinking on the way to Pomeroy how poor everything looked near Stanger. On the return trip I was struck by how well off the people near Stanger were. Obviously, Pomeroy was at the bottom of the barrel and it looked very different traveling out vs. traveling in.
The people always seem to be going somewhere. They walk or stand along the roads everywhere waiting for a ride - hitch hiking or waiting for a 14 passenger van that is not full to stop and pick them up. Frequently that are sitting by the road in the middle of no where. No cross roads, no obvious path from anywhere. They appear to live in houses (mud brick, stick and wattle, or cinder block, and thatched roofs) somewhere out of sight, walk up to the road -- and wait. The women walk with the bundles on their heads (including firewood they have gone far to scavenge) very slowly. Although not at hot this time of year -- no one is in a hurry to get anywhere until they get behind the wheel of car that is.
The rondeval construction is classic wattle. They form an interior and exterior wall from stakes with wattle woven between to form a wall. The interior space is filled up with stones and the whole think is coverd in mud or some sort of plaster and the roof thatched. Many appear to be very old and deteriorated but still acting as houses. They are everywhere. The are in small clusters on hilltops, hillsides, or near Pomeroy, scatter throughout the dusty landscape.
Getting to Stanger took about 2 hours -- as we got to the N2 right at 12 noon. Mom was ready for lunch and a break. So, because I had studied up, I suggested we explore the nearby (and very swanky beach town) of Blythedale which is a few miles from Stanger on the beach. It mostly consists of housing developments and condos with a view of the ocean. There is a public beach, 1 bar/cafe (which looked abandoned), and a very nice resort, the Palm Beach Resort. We asked the attendant at the publich beach for directions and ended up at the Palm Beach Resort. There were lot of monkeys on the road roaming the trash containers looking for a meal.
This is definitely low season along the Dolphin Coast. We were the only people in the restaurant. It was a gorgeous setting in the tropical vegetation with a view of the beach and surf about a 2 minute walk away. The weather was very pleasant and we had a very nice lunch for R160 ($20) for both of us. A nice glass of Sauvignon Blanc was R16 ($2) I had a piece of local fish broiled and Mom had some sort of sandwich that was quite good. The rooms were about $250 per night. Best of all, Mom reported that they had wonderful bathroom fixtures. We agreed that this was the first stop on our vacation and that it was a world (and then some) away from Pomeroy.
After lunch, we hit the N2 north bound. We left about 1 PM. The N2 turned into a 2 lane road north of Richard's Bay which meant we had to dodge traffic. There is a lot of traffic. On two lane roads with wide shoulders, if you are a slow car, you pull to the left on the shoulder and let others pass in a combination center lane. The oncoming traffic moves over to their left. In this way a 2 lane road is used as a 3 lane road with a passing lane down that middle that is somehow shared by both lanes of traffic. Its like driving in Italy. When you are driving, you focus on driving, and nothing else. Other than buying gas, we pressed on to Mtumbatumba and got off there to stock up on groceries about 3 PM at the Pick n Pay. Pick n Pay is very modern in style and look. Except for the limited selection in some departments and the definitely distinctive meat department it had everything a person could want for the next 2 days including -- a rotisserie chicken for dinner, 2 baguettes, bananas, green beans, cheese, wine, lamb chops for a second dinner, sweet rolls, yogurt and cereal and 3 bottles of fairly good wine for $43 total (this includes the wine which averages about $4 per bottle and is very drinkable).
After Mtumbatumba is was a short drive to the Hlulhuwe park entrance. We got there about 5 pm - and the shadows were getting long. It was a 15 km drive from the entrance to he Hill Top camp. As we drove in along the road we immediately saw: rhinoceros, giraffe, water buffalo, and zebra - in the first 3 minutes. The park landscape and animals are almost impossible to describe. When we got to the Hill Top camp - it was a bit cool with a breeze (to cool to sit on the patio and look at the incredible view) so we went to our cabin. Although I think the camp is full, it is very private. Our chalet is very spacious with a deck in the woods. It has a modern kitchen with stuff and sufficient space we won't get in each other's way. The sun set - we had wine and cheese on the deck until dark - had our chicken dinner. When we were watching the stars come out, Mom said, look at that plane. It wasn't a plane, it was a very bright satellite. Mom thought it was the first one she had seen, ever. I crossed over head in less than 1 minute. Was it an omen or a sign for our game drive in the morning, a possible Zulu point of view. Actually, it isn't a sign, but probably the result of an act of the US Congress in funding NASA.
We hit the hay at 8:30. Mom announced that it was the best bed she had slept on in months. It is so comfortable "you won't want to get up," she said. I woke up at midnight to write this. Heading back to bed now.
Tomorrow we are off on a game drive at 5 am (alarm at 4 am, be at the lodge at 4:50) for 3 hours. I am expecting the temperature will be in the low 50's and that we will need to dress warm in the open vehicle. We will be back by 8 am for breakfast. The sky is clear, the stars are out, and the weather forecast is for 80 degrees on the coast and slightly higher inland.
Wednesday, October 5, 2011
Arrival and Pomeroy
So after arriving in Durban, it was easy to find the van/bus that would take me to the hotel for R50. I an not sure what is happening to the Euro, but the Rand is now at 8.05 to the USD. This is very welcome. So the 15 minute ride to the Holiday Inn Express cost $6.25 each way. An incredible bargain compared to a taxi at R240 ($30). It was raining and very rough on the plane ride into Durban.
The Holiday Inn, quoted to me at $90 per night turned out to be R611 ($77). The room was pleasant but small like European hotels. I got there at 9 PM and was hungery. I was told the hotel restaurant was open until "half-past 10" so I presented my selft at 9:30. Oh, they were so sad that they had just closed the kitchen. But they volunteer they would make 1 more thing. So I opted for the chicken kabob togo. After a 10 minute wait, I was thanked my business, given my food, and told that it was on the house because I was the last customer of the night. Evidently, I won the sweepstakes to be the last customer and to pay nothing. I thanked them and moved on.
Slept well until 3:30 am. Then ... wide a wake. At 5:30 I decided to get ready and get back to the airport on the 7:30 am taxi (another $6.25) But first breakfast. The breakfast room had a balcony overlooking the Indian Ocean and it was clear, cool, and sunny. Coffee and croissant were typical. However the scrambled eggs and the cold baked beans were regrettable.
Waiting for the bus on the balcony, I was advised by a local to avoid the backroad to Pomeroy and to take the freeway for the maximum distance. We looked at map, we discussed obstructions in the road such as chickens, goats, and cattle; the many many buses. I opted for backroads.
Got my car at the airport, took the N2 north to Stanger up the coast about 20 minutes and headed inland to Pomeroy via Graytown and Tugela Ferry. All of the animals and more were encountered along with a myriad of pothotles. But I made excellent time on the road and enjoyed the dramatic country. It is ridges and deep, broad valleys. Very spectacular. After a bit I rolled into Pomeroy -- the clinic is the first anything you encounter when approaching from the south. Beyond is the shopping district where chickens, cheap clothes, and lots of loitering abound.
I arrived at 11 am which was a pleasant surprise for Mom. She looks very good and has established a daily routine of helping in the clinic. The weight she lost early on is still gone and she reports to weigh about 140 pounds. We immediately began the tour and meeting the hospital staff. Evidently my arrival was well publicized and I was expected.
We toured Moms rooms in the apartment. I is a fairly large building with about 5 room arranged on single hall way with a living room area and a porch on the north end. The kitchen, bathroom, and supply room occupy the other side of the hallway. She has a simple room with a table and 3 chairs, a night stand table with a small reading lamp, a box spring and mattress bed that sit directly on the floor. It has a large window that faces to the west for the warm afternoon sun, and a wardrobe in which she keeps her clothes.
There is a sink in the room that she uses as a vanity. (See picture)
In the kitchen, there is a big stove that doesn't work (loose wiring shocks anyone who tries) and a fridge or. Cooking is done on a 2 burner hot plate and a microwave gets put to many uses. I you are looking to send a small something -- start with basics like: a pancake turner, a few old bit of tableware (forks, spoons, knife), a colandar for fruit and vegetables, large serving spoon, hot pads, kitchen towels, etc. In short, the kitchen lacks most everything.
So, Mom thought I should have the communal lunch with the staff. Evidently most of them were afraid of me so they did not stay but I thought it was just a nice day out for a picnic. We eat in the kitchen with a few of the people and had pap and stewed beef with carrots. I thought it was good. The pap (corn meal much) is total bland and serves the same function as white rice in a Chinese meal.
Lunch over, we decided to take a ride into Dundee. This is a big treat for Mom since she normally goes along and must take the packed taxi each way. Since we had a car, we could easily got there in 30 minutes. We went to the candy store, the laundry/book exchange to get new books to read, two grocery stores to see the optons, the liquor store, and to a tea house looking for a wi-fi connection. We didn't find the wi-fi connection by she learned where it was for later reference. Her computer connected beautifully with the 3G cell card she had at high speed and we got her email downloaded. It was obvious that the challenge in Pomeroy with connectivity is the cell phone coverage is of the old style and has very slow bandwidth. We were able to make it work in Pomeroy also but it has a tendency to drop unexpectedly. Need to work on this, it may be a simple as re-installing the driver to eliminated software issues. The goal is to get it reliable so that she can use it.
Sister called and invited us for dinner - which we could not refuse and we picked up a couple bottles of wines and a carrot cake for dessert.
Dinner with the Sisters. Got off to a slow start. The don't talk much. So I did my best to get them talking and to have some fun. Dinner itself was not remarkable. The focus in South Africa is on very basic cooking. After a while, they wanted to know more about the US. Were people happy that bin Laden had been killed? What is the progress for the blacks in South Africa ? How long will it take? What needs to change? The Sisters do not stay up late so dinner was over by 7:30. Mom and I went back to her apartment to process the first day and to go over the itineray for the trip. We would have drunk another bottle of win but we left the 3rd wine with the Sisters as a gift. So off to bed. The Sisters gave me a private apartment in the wing of the Convent -- day room, laundry, bathroom, and bedroom for my use. Very generous. Unfortunately, when I got back they had also set the alarm. It made a big racket for about a minute until someone turned it off.
That night, it rained very hard and the temperature dropped significantly In the morning, it was about 40 degrees and cloudy. It had been a very pleasant day in the 70's on Tuesday.
Wednesday was a down day ... cloudy and cold ... we focused on the internet problem and got everything working in Pomerory afer a few tweeks. The only problem: SLOW. So one must be patient. We discussed the merit of patience several times throughout the day. We got the email to send and recieve reliably, we posted to Facebook, and created a blog. The blog is easily to update becasue we are keeping the pictures to a minimum. Facebook is very slow due to all the graphics.
Big deal occurred. Package from Mary with licorice, cards, and a DVD movie arrived. I showed Mom how to watch the DVD. That was an inspired gift. DVD's can be cheap and make up for the lack of outside communication (local TV doesn't exactly cut it here in zulu and Afrikaans.) I encourage everyone to send DVDs.
So we got some email. Here is what I learned about email etiquette: When you have little to do the emails you recieve are important. Longer emails where people share events and thoughts is much better than "looking forward to your blog". Email is much anticipated and it is much more fun and satisfying when it is longer and contains even mundane personal details.
So after all that, I needed a nap. So I took a 3 hour mid afternoon nap where the sun came out and it warmed up. We made dinner in the approximation to a kitchen - pork chop and fried potatoes - ate and talked until 9:30. The off to bed.
Thursday morning we are driving to the game park. Today (Thursday) has dawned bright and sunny. Here is some game on the streets of Pomeroy. A picture of Mom's workspace in the kitchen (pretty basic) and having morning coffee in her room
The Holiday Inn, quoted to me at $90 per night turned out to be R611 ($77). The room was pleasant but small like European hotels. I got there at 9 PM and was hungery. I was told the hotel restaurant was open until "half-past 10" so I presented my selft at 9:30. Oh, they were so sad that they had just closed the kitchen. But they volunteer they would make 1 more thing. So I opted for the chicken kabob togo. After a 10 minute wait, I was thanked my business, given my food, and told that it was on the house because I was the last customer of the night. Evidently, I won the sweepstakes to be the last customer and to pay nothing. I thanked them and moved on.
Slept well until 3:30 am. Then ... wide a wake. At 5:30 I decided to get ready and get back to the airport on the 7:30 am taxi (another $6.25) But first breakfast. The breakfast room had a balcony overlooking the Indian Ocean and it was clear, cool, and sunny. Coffee and croissant were typical. However the scrambled eggs and the cold baked beans were regrettable.
Waiting for the bus on the balcony, I was advised by a local to avoid the backroad to Pomeroy and to take the freeway for the maximum distance. We looked at map, we discussed obstructions in the road such as chickens, goats, and cattle; the many many buses. I opted for backroads.
Got my car at the airport, took the N2 north to Stanger up the coast about 20 minutes and headed inland to Pomeroy via Graytown and Tugela Ferry. All of the animals and more were encountered along with a myriad of pothotles. But I made excellent time on the road and enjoyed the dramatic country. It is ridges and deep, broad valleys. Very spectacular. After a bit I rolled into Pomeroy -- the clinic is the first anything you encounter when approaching from the south. Beyond is the shopping district where chickens, cheap clothes, and lots of loitering abound.
I arrived at 11 am which was a pleasant surprise for Mom. She looks very good and has established a daily routine of helping in the clinic. The weight she lost early on is still gone and she reports to weigh about 140 pounds. We immediately began the tour and meeting the hospital staff. Evidently my arrival was well publicized and I was expected.
We toured Moms rooms in the apartment. I is a fairly large building with about 5 room arranged on single hall way with a living room area and a porch on the north end. The kitchen, bathroom, and supply room occupy the other side of the hallway. She has a simple room with a table and 3 chairs, a night stand table with a small reading lamp, a box spring and mattress bed that sit directly on the floor. It has a large window that faces to the west for the warm afternoon sun, and a wardrobe in which she keeps her clothes.
There is a sink in the room that she uses as a vanity. (See picture)
In the kitchen, there is a big stove that doesn't work (loose wiring shocks anyone who tries) and a fridge or. Cooking is done on a 2 burner hot plate and a microwave gets put to many uses. I you are looking to send a small something -- start with basics like: a pancake turner, a few old bit of tableware (forks, spoons, knife), a colandar for fruit and vegetables, large serving spoon, hot pads, kitchen towels, etc. In short, the kitchen lacks most everything.
So, Mom thought I should have the communal lunch with the staff. Evidently most of them were afraid of me so they did not stay but I thought it was just a nice day out for a picnic. We eat in the kitchen with a few of the people and had pap and stewed beef with carrots. I thought it was good. The pap (corn meal much) is total bland and serves the same function as white rice in a Chinese meal.
Lunch over, we decided to take a ride into Dundee. This is a big treat for Mom since she normally goes along and must take the packed taxi each way. Since we had a car, we could easily got there in 30 minutes. We went to the candy store, the laundry/book exchange to get new books to read, two grocery stores to see the optons, the liquor store, and to a tea house looking for a wi-fi connection. We didn't find the wi-fi connection by she learned where it was for later reference. Her computer connected beautifully with the 3G cell card she had at high speed and we got her email downloaded. It was obvious that the challenge in Pomeroy with connectivity is the cell phone coverage is of the old style and has very slow bandwidth. We were able to make it work in Pomeroy also but it has a tendency to drop unexpectedly. Need to work on this, it may be a simple as re-installing the driver to eliminated software issues. The goal is to get it reliable so that she can use it.
Sister called and invited us for dinner - which we could not refuse and we picked up a couple bottles of wines and a carrot cake for dessert.
Dinner with the Sisters. Got off to a slow start. The don't talk much. So I did my best to get them talking and to have some fun. Dinner itself was not remarkable. The focus in South Africa is on very basic cooking. After a while, they wanted to know more about the US. Were people happy that bin Laden had been killed? What is the progress for the blacks in South Africa ? How long will it take? What needs to change? The Sisters do not stay up late so dinner was over by 7:30. Mom and I went back to her apartment to process the first day and to go over the itineray for the trip. We would have drunk another bottle of win but we left the 3rd wine with the Sisters as a gift. So off to bed. The Sisters gave me a private apartment in the wing of the Convent -- day room, laundry, bathroom, and bedroom for my use. Very generous. Unfortunately, when I got back they had also set the alarm. It made a big racket for about a minute until someone turned it off.
That night, it rained very hard and the temperature dropped significantly In the morning, it was about 40 degrees and cloudy. It had been a very pleasant day in the 70's on Tuesday.
Wednesday was a down day ... cloudy and cold ... we focused on the internet problem and got everything working in Pomerory afer a few tweeks. The only problem: SLOW. So one must be patient. We discussed the merit of patience several times throughout the day. We got the email to send and recieve reliably, we posted to Facebook, and created a blog. The blog is easily to update becasue we are keeping the pictures to a minimum. Facebook is very slow due to all the graphics.
Big deal occurred. Package from Mary with licorice, cards, and a DVD movie arrived. I showed Mom how to watch the DVD. That was an inspired gift. DVD's can be cheap and make up for the lack of outside communication (local TV doesn't exactly cut it here in zulu and Afrikaans.) I encourage everyone to send DVDs.
So we got some email. Here is what I learned about email etiquette: When you have little to do the emails you recieve are important. Longer emails where people share events and thoughts is much better than "looking forward to your blog". Email is much anticipated and it is much more fun and satisfying when it is longer and contains even mundane personal details.
So after all that, I needed a nap. So I took a 3 hour mid afternoon nap where the sun came out and it warmed up. We made dinner in the approximation to a kitchen - pork chop and fried potatoes - ate and talked until 9:30. The off to bed.
Thursday morning we are driving to the game park. Today (Thursday) has dawned bright and sunny. Here is some game on the streets of Pomeroy. A picture of Mom's workspace in the kitchen (pretty basic) and having morning coffee in her room
Tuesday, October 4, 2011
Posting Comments
The readers have had difficulty posting comments. I think I've fixed it now. So try again,
Kathy
Glad you have arrived safely. It's not good you ignored the warnings of the South Africans and took the dangerous route. This is another reason I am not with you on this trip. I hope everything goes ok. But maybe you should pay attention to the warnings. PLEASE!
Kathy
Glad you have arrived safely. It's not good you ignored the warnings of the South Africans and took the dangerous route. This is another reason I am not with you on this trip. I hope everything goes ok. But maybe you should pay attention to the warnings. PLEASE!
OK !! Success, drove without incident to Pomeroy this morning in the predicted 3 hours. Beautiful country. Lots of trash by the roads. Chicken, sheep, goats, and cattle at various points. As some one said at breakfast, "this is Africa mate !" He advised to freeway which I ignored. Road was actually in good shape and made excellent time. ... Arrived in Pomeroy at 11 am and was met by a throng (actually just 1 person) of well wisher. I got the royal nickel tour. Mom is in good condition, looks no worse for wear, and very happy to see me. This afternoon, we went to the famous hangouts in Dundee (where we are now in a tea shoppe). I have been invited to dinner with the Sisters this evening so we are getting treats and wine to thank them. -- Mark
Hi wonderful to have Mark here He is a little taller than most and now I feel Short Here I am taller than most. The nickel tour here will not take long here either. But I bought sour gummy worms so am happy. Looking forward to the week. Mom
Hi wonderful to have Mark here He is a little taller than most and now I feel Short Here I am taller than most. The nickel tour here will not take long here either. But I bought sour gummy worms so am happy. Looking forward to the week. Mom
Monday, October 3, 2011
Arrived in Johannesburg
I have arrived in Johannesburg. Uneventful but long flight. Seat mate lived in Cape Town so I got lots of tips on what to do there. To the Ambien and got about 6 hours sleep. Although it is now 6:20 PM here, its feels like 6:20 PM. Sun is going down and I am waiting for the flight to Durban. I let Mom know I was here. The Skype things works well. More later as I only both 30 minutes of internet access.
Sunday, October 2, 2011
Sunday morning
Packed and ready to go. Talked to Mom to let her know I was on the way. She said, "bring licorice." So we will go by Walgreens on the way.
Saturday, October 1, 2011
Visiting Mom in Africa
It Saturday night, I need to finish packing tonight and we will be leaving for the airport at 11:15 tomorrow morning. Then its to Atlanta, Johannesburg, and then Durban. Renting a car after a nights sleeps and then a 4 hour drive to Mom's town. I am not looking forward to the long flight -- 1 PM Sunday in Minneapolis until 1 PM in Pomeroy KwaZula Natal South Africa on TUESADAY. OUCH !!
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